"The Catalan Pyrenees: dramatic, unspoilt and the warmest climate of all the Pyrenean Mountains. The mountain trail with a difference and fantastic food"
Forget everything you think you know about mountain riding. The Smugglers Trail is very special. Discover one of the loveliest regions of Catalonia. This is the heartland of the region where the red and yellow flag flies proudly on this breathtaking trail. This is really a gastronomic experience. The food in the mountain hotels is of a high culinary standard. You have the opportunity to taste different delicious Catalan dishes. You will discover two distinct landscapes: the mighty peaks of the Pyrenees and the warm wooded hills of the Garrotxa. This trail is an interesting mixture with plenty of gallops and at times leading your horse on foot.
We begin at the gateway of the Pyrenees, the Alta Garrotxa region. The floodplains of the river Fluviá offer a lively start to this awesome trail, as we canter across the meadows up into the spectacular gorge of Sant Aniol. In the evening we arrive at the village of Beget, a gem of Romanesque architecture. This region is inundated with architectural heritage, churches, castles and monuments aplenty.
Onwards and upwards to the mountain peaks riding through beech forests and meadows. Gallops galore as we ride past gushing mountain streams inviting us in for a swim or siesta. Horses graze, herds of cows doze and eagles circle above.
We stay in Camprodon, a lively bustling market town with shops and nightlife. The following day the terrain is diverse, the views immense and the pace is lively. Finally we leave the Pyrenees and ride back out across the plains with a final canter back to civilisation and a warm Can Jou welcome.
In the evening upon your arrival in the town of Sant Jaume de Llierca you will be driven up a winding track to Can Jou, an 11th century Farmhouse perched high up on a ridge overlooking the Pyrenees.
THE WELCOME
Here you will meet the family, the guide and the Can Jou team.
At dinner we will go over the week's program, you will be told about the special characteristics of our Andalucian trail horses. After dinner you will be given an introduction to the week´s programme with an opportunity for a one-to-one conversation designed to find every rider their perfect horse.
Finally you will discover how to play the 'Champagne rules' under which anyone found guilty of holding up the ride at any point is obliged to buy a bottle of local cava for the group that evening, making for lively dinners!
Having tacked up we set off down into the valley of the river Fluviá, Catalonia´s largest river, and following a gushing stream we canter across the plains and into the spectacular gorge of Sant Aniol. This is the beginning of a historic smuggling trail between France and Spain. We stop for our picnic next to a big river pool, underneath an impressive Romanesque bridge. Excellent for a refreshing swim before lunch.
This spectacular scenery is the gateway to the region of the Alta Garrotxa, one of the regions most beautiful natural parks.
High up in the mountains surrounded by huge oaks, we stable the horses and return to Can Jou for a delicious dinner and a well earned rest.
In the morning we leave the gorge with its sculptured rock formations and we ascend higher into the mountains. We ride through Talaxia, a typical mountain settlement with an impressive Romanesque church.
From here we have spectacular views of "La Costa Bona", our goal for this journey, Queen of the Pyrenean peaks that we can discern in the far distance.
After a walk down into the next valley we eat a delicious picnic next to a little river. This is an ideal spot to swim with your horse.
In the evening we arrive at Beget, a beautiful mountain village, nestled amidst the gentle mountain scenery. This village maintains all of its original charm, famous for its Romanesque church, original tower and its Black Madonna, a gem of Romanesque architecture.
Our hotel for the night is El Forn, it was the village bakery and now it is a well known restaurant in the region. Famous for the nouvelle cuisine of the local Catalan dishes and the local mountain wine is excellent.
Today after the best breakfast you have ever had we continue our journey riding through beech forests and meadows carpeted in wild flowers. The local farmhouses are huge constructions build by the local aristocracy and wealthy Barcelonian merchants in the 16th century. Again the Catalonians Romanesque architecture is ever present in the arches, doors, windows and churches of this region, making for wonderful photography opportunities.
Our destination is the village of Espinavell, another small smugglers village untouched by the passing of time, just 5 kms from the French border. We stay in a family run mountain hotel with the imposing presence of "La Costa Bona" in the background.
The speciality of this restaurant is its delicious jamon serrano and Ratafia, the home made local liquor.
Today we will be riding up into the highest mountains of our journey. After an early start we begin to climb a winding track alongside a river. Soon we leave the track as up here it is only rolling mountain meadows and wild flowers where we enjoy some very nice canters and gallops.
The views are immense and breathtaking, the light is that of the Pyrenees. We pass herds of cows and horses grazing up here for the summer. Here it is very common to see eagles, vultures and herds of wild goats and deer.
After days of riding in the countryside it is nice to arrive in Camprodon, a lively market town, favoured by the Catalan aristocracy in the past. A great opportunity to do some shopping and visit the local bars. The hotel is situated right in the centre and the restaurant is famous for its meat and fish dishes. The best paella you have ever eaten, a wonderful mixture of mountains and sea, meat and fish together.
The journey continues... we sadly leave Camprodon with its lovely squares and art nouveau buildings. Following a river we pass by the local textile factories, that have seen former days of glory, and up onto the ridges. Here we reach spectacular mountain plateaus, where the views are immense and the terrain is good for galloping. On a good day you can see vast tracts of coastline stretching out before us.
In the evening, we will arrive in the village of Oix, another charming mountain village with a magnificent castle, narrow winding streets and lovely cafes.
Here we will settle the horses for a well deserved rest after a long and rewarding day. We will go by car to Can Jou for another delicious diner.
The peaks of the Alta Garrotxa are all around us. The air is poignant with the smell of wild herbs and Mediterranean fragrances. In the far distance we can make out Can Jou, our final destination of this journey.
Today the riding is lively. The strong Andalucian horses are still full of stamina. The gallops are long and steady as we ride out across the plains, dotted with small local villages, leaving the Pyrenees behind us.
Today we are happy to see Can Jou, our base, again after 6 days of adventure and excellent riding and good company. Finally we will have a delicious farewell diner and toast our faithful horses and new found friends and say ¨hasta la proxima¨
CAN JOU - CATALONIA TRAILS 17854 La Miana - Sant Jaume de Llierca [ Girona · SPAIN ]
Phone: +0034 972 19 02 63 // +0034 609 531 206 · email: